Claire's Blog: Estonia - The Unexpected Journey That Stole My Heart

After 40 years in travel, it’s not often a destination takes you by complete surprise. But Estonia, you certainly did that! It was one of the most emotional and eye-opening trips I’ve ever taken. It’s a joy to discover you can still be so wonderfully wrong about a place. I went in expecting it to be rather old-fashioned with a heavy Russian influence, and I couldn’t have been more mistaken.

A Land of Welcome & Flavour

Before I even get into the journey, what struck me about Estonia was the feeling of the place itself. From the moment I arrived, there was a sense of modern, forward-thinking warmth. It’s a country with an incredible amount of space, both physically and mentally. The people have a quiet confidence and a deep connection to their land that is truly moving.

This connection reveals itself in lovely little traditions. In one restaurant, for example, they gently stopped me from putting my handbag on the floor, explaining their belief that it allows your wealth to drain away into the earth (ah, I’d been wondering where it had all gone!) It’s these small, authentic moments that make you feel like you’re not just a tourist, but a welcome guest. You’ll also find a fascinating pagan history that still lingers today; Midsummer, which takes place on the 23-24 June, is a bigger celebration here than Christmas, a joyful time of bonfires and ancient traditions that speaks to a deep love for nature.

And the food – I was totally blown away. It’s a real foodie heaven, packed with Michelin-star and Michelin-recommended restaurants at half the price you’d pay in the UK. The focus is always on what’s fresh, local, and in season, creating a modern and vibrant culinary scene that was a constant delight.

Part 1: Pärnu

Our journey started at the beautiful beach resort of Pärnu, Estonia’s official "summer capital". The atmosphere is wonderfully laid-back, with long stretches of white-sand beach and a charming town to explore. You’ll also spot a quirky local feature: elephant statues dotted all over town! It’s a beloved local tradition, a nod to the resort’s history that started with real elephants on the beach in the 1800s and evolved into giant wooden water slides.

This is a country made for soft adventure. You can try something as unique as bog-walking (on special snowshoe-like footwear!), but for us, exploring Pärnu by bicycle was the perfect way to soak up the peaceful coastal vibe. For those looking to unwind, the town is famous for its spas – I can’t recommend the unique and wonderful experience at the Hedon Spa and Hotel enough. Located in a beautifully restored historical mud baths building right on the beachfront, it’s the perfect place to relax and rejuvenate.

The spa itself is a destination. They offer a ‘silent spa’ ritual, which is a deeply restorative journey through a series of saunas and pools. You follow a set path, moving from a warm thermal bath to a salt flotation tank, from a gentle sauna to an icy plunge. It’s a quiet, meditative experience that leaves you feeling completely refreshed and was unlike anything I've done before.

Part 2: Saaremaa Island

The next leg of our trip was a scenic ferry ride from the mainland port of Virtsu to Saaremaa, Estonia’s largest island. Stepping onto the island felt like stepping into a different world – one that is peaceful, timeless, and deeply connected to nature.

The experiences here felt incredibly personal. Kuressaare Castle, one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in the Baltics, is simply stunning. One evening, we had dinner in a quirky old windmill restaurant, Saaremaa Veski, where the free-spirited owner served us an unbelievable selection of homemade berry schnapps.

But the foodie highlight of the island had to be our meal at Luscher & Matiesen Muhu Veinitalu, a local vineyard. We were treated to a meal by Michelin-star chef Kim Päivästö, Finland’s chef of the year 2021, and the food was just outstanding. While we only had time for a little bird-watching (something I’m extremely passionate about), the island is a paradise for wildlife lovers, with opportunities to see eagles, owls, and more. And the northeastern areas of Estonia are also home to over 1000 brown bears!

Part 3: Tallinn

Our journey ended in Tallinn, a city of beautiful contradictions. Of course, there is the medieval Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site that is as enchanting as you’d imagine, with its cobbled streets and historic architecture. It feels like stepping back in time.

But the real surprise of Tallinn lies just a short walk away. The city’s true vibrancy is in its regenerated districts, where a creative, modern spirit is thriving. We discovered the trendy Kalamaja district, which is home to the Telliskivi Creative City, buzzing with energy, fantastic street art, and a collection of innovative bakeries and micro-breweries. It’s this blend of ancient history and hipster cool that makes Tallinn so exciting. One minute you’re exploring a medieval wall, the next you’re sipping craft beer in a converted factory. It feels dynamic, relaxed, and full of life.

Our Dream Week in Estonia

Fancy an adventure? Here’s a little inspiration for a seven-night trip that gives you a real taste of this incredible country.

• Days 1-3: Tallinn’s Charms

  • Fly into Tallinn and spend three nights exploring the city. Wander the cobbled streets of the Old Town, discover the trendy Kalamaja district, and indulge in the incredible food scene.

• Days 4-5: Seaside Relaxation in Pärnu

  • Travel to the beautiful beach resort of Pärnu. Relax at a spa hotel, cycle along the promenade, and enjoy the laid-back coastal vibe.

• Days 6-7: Island Life on Saaremaa

  • Take a scenic ferry ride to Saaremaa. Spend two nights soaking up the peaceful atmosphere, exploring Kuressaare Castle, and visiting the iconic windmills before heading back to Tallinn for your flight home.

• Wildlife Add-on

  • If you’re a nature lover, let’s add a few nights in one of the national parks to go bear-watching or look for incredible birdlife.

Why I Can’t Wait to Send You There

I came home feeling genuinely moved by Estonia. I’ve been in the industry for over 40 years now, so it’s rare to be so completely wrong about a place, and it was a wonderful reminder that there are always new discoveries to be made.

So, who is Estonia for? Honestly, everyone. Couples, foodies, nature-lovers, and culture-seekers will all find something to love. It’s perfect for a short break or a longer, more active holiday.

Would I go back? In a heartbeat. It’s a brilliant destination, and I couldn’t be happier to have discovered it. Now, I can’t wait to help you discover it too.

A huge thanks to the brilliant teams at Minty Highway and Nordic Travel Solutions for organising this trip. It was a fantastic experience to explore a new part of the world with a lovely, small group of like-minded people.

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Claire Oliver is Owner & Luxury Travel Specialist at Luxury Dream Holidays with over 35 years’ experience. She curates bespoke holidays, honeymoons, weddings and once-in-a-lifetime adventures, always listening carefully to what matters to you. When she isn’t planning dream escapes, she loves wildlife spotting, trying new cuisines and exploring hidden gems.